Tariq the Toothless is our caretaker. A muscular man with rough hands, his hard labour life is etched deeply into his kind face. He wanders around the site day and night doing very little but then I guess there is very little to do at this time of year. However, he is an efficient rubbish disposer. We are eternally grateful as otherwise we would be forced to yomp up and down Mount Tepe with all the empty bottles. Tariq stares a lot. We must seem like a creatures from a different planet.