People who know me know that I love an old ruin. Nothing gets me going more than a pile of ancient tumbledown stones. When I can’t visit ’em, I watch programmes about ’em on the box. And few TV pundits get the sap rising better than classical scholar Bettany Hughes. Buxom Bettany flits and flirts around the Med telling tales of the ancients in a fun and fascinating way. In fact, it was she who first introduced us to Ithaca in her series A Greek Odyssey. We’ve been to Odysseus’ legendary isle twice now, so she really does deserve a medal from the Greek Tourist Board.
Bettany’s latest expedition is Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, a three-part series on Channel 5. In a deliciously vivid and insightful narrative enhanced with the very latest archaeological finds, she walks the viewer through the meagre remains of those once wondrous wonders of yore. We’ve visited three of the sites – The Statue of Zeus at Olympia (carted off centuries ago), The Temple of Artemis in Ephesus (just one forlorn column remains standing) and, of course, the scattered pile of stones that is The Mausoleum of Halicarnassus in present-day Bodrum, our former home town.
Cue the first shameless plug for my second memoir, Turkey Street…
… as Bodrum had always provided refuge to the exiled and the unorthodox, we gambled on getting the going rate for ‘theatrical’ types. Supplemented by Liam’s feeble but endearing attempts at Turkish, the gamble paid off and Hanife the Magnificent, the undisputed matriarch of an old Bodrum family, accepted us and our pink pounds with open hands. We paid our rent and two weeks later moved into Stone Cottage No. 2 on the corner of Sentry Lane and Turkey Street. And so it came to pass that by happy coincidence we found ourselves living on the same road as the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. ‘I think,’ Liam had said at the time, ‘you would call that a result.’
Chapter 1 – The Garden of Sin

The final episode of Bettany’s epic journey starts with her riding pillion on a scooter driving the wrong way down Turkey Street trying to find the entrance to the ancient site. Imagine our complete surprise and delight as she passed Stone Cottage No. 2 along the way.
Blink and you’ll miss it, so here’s a still with a big yellow arrow indicating our garden wall.
Cue my second shameless plug…
Tired and dripping, I waded past rows of sleeping dolmuş minibuses – ‘dollies’, as Liam called them – and splashed home along Turkey Street. Twenty-three centuries earlier, Alexander the Great had marched along the very same road to wrest old Halicarnassus from the doughty Persians, just before he went on to conquer half the known world. My ambitions were rather more modest: to survive the short stroll in one piece and jump back under the duck down duvet. Like many old Anatolian thoroughfares, Turkey Street was just wide enough for two emaciated camels to pass each other unhindered. This constraint never seemed to trouble the locals, but for us, motorcades of Nissan tanks flanked by Vespas on amphetamines made for a testing pedestrian experience. Aided by the now-you-see-them-now-you-don’t pavements, death or permanent disability lurked at every twist and turn of the perilous road.
Chapter 2 – Turkey Street
Eventually Bettany found the Mausoleum, bringing the scanty ruins to life more than I did when I wrote about them back in the day. Thank you, Bettany, you brought back such monumental memories.

If you love piles of rocks, you really must come for a visit. We have some amazing ones within spitting distance. Lisa is a great tour guide and we love taking guests. Oh, and there’s monkeys.
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Mexico is definitely on our bucket list. Be afraid 😱
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Monkeys!!
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🤣
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I’m in an old mining town, so we have rocks too. Most are nothing special, but some amazing turquoise and malachite have been pulled from the mines and their tailings. The best specimens were either cut up and put into jewelry or landed in private collections or museums.
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I’m guessing the mine is all closed up now?
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Yes, closed, though there are recent hints of reopening parts for more exploration.
The mine was just closing when I moved to town 52 years ago and bought my miners cabin for $3000. Those shacks have now been remodeled and upgraded and sell for anywhere from $300,000-$600,000. Occasionally you can find a small one for a little over $200,000.
I left Bisbee 20 years ago, opting to live 7 miles south in a little town right on the Mexican border where prices never inflate without massive (expensive) rehab.
By the way, I really liked your description of Turkey Street. Who but you would describe a street by mentioning emaciated camels? You certainly have a way with words.
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Many thanks, Emilie! 😀
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